Once upon a time, Gucci was black on black and tight as tight but times and designers have changed and the latest Gucci girl sauntered into town in floaty flowers today.

The designer door has been spinning at Gucci since star stylist Tom Ford left last year and the spring/summer 2006 show was the first to be penned by Frida Giannini, previously in charge only of the Florentine house's accessories lines.

"It was wonderful to work with one image from the beginning of the collection to the end and make it all coherent, from the accessories to the clothes," Giannini said before the show.

From the moment fashionistas crowded into the catwalk show, there was a different feel. Gone was the black lacquer and in its place shone polished wooden parquet.

As the music started, a few classic Gucci pieces strutted onto the stage, tight black cigarette pants paired under box jackets with cap sleeves tucked up on the shoulder.

But the new look Gucci quickly made its appearance in a series of multicoloured shirts reminiscent of the bright flower print Giannini used on this year's canvas handbags.

From then on, the catwalk was splashed with backless day dresses in fuchsia and emerald green or flowery floor-length evening gowns redolent of Katherine Hepburn-era Hollywood, all flowing off next year's staple high waistband.

"Sexiness is in Gucci's DNA but maybe I interpret it differently, being a woman and dressing women of my generation," Giannini said.

Giannini also took a quick spin in the 1970s with skirts and plunging swimsuits in brown, orange and yellow flowers.

The audience's response to the collection was mixed.

One U.S. fashion critic slapped it down as "not a very auspicious start" while Ron Frasch, vice chairman of U.S. retail emporium Saks Fifth Avenue was more enthusiastic.

"They were lovely dresses. The Gucci aggressiveness was still there but it was softer," he said.

Giannini took over Gucci's womenswear design from Alessandra Facchinetti who fizzled after two seasons and a lukewarm reception. During that time, Gucci's advertising focused on Giannini's accessories, which make up most of its sales.